Bloomington Concrete Experts designs and installs concrete patios, walkways, and sidewalks for homeowners and businesses across Bloomington, MN. The same crew handles our driveways, garage floors, and commercial flatwork, so you get one team for the whole property. We handle new installation, replacement, resurfacing, and repair. That might mean a brand-new backyard patio, a replacement for a cracked front walkway, or a code-compliant sidewalk for a commercial property. Every job can be finished in standard broom, stamped, exposed-aggregate, or colored decorative concrete. We work with homeowners building an outdoor living space. We work just as often with property managers and general contractors. Both need walkway and entry-path work done right.
We're based in Bloomington and pour patios and walkways all over the Twin Cities metro. That includes Richfield, Edina, Eden Prairie, Minnetonka, Burnsville, Eagan, Apple Valley, Minneapolis, and St. Paul. Every patio we build starts at the correct 4-inch slab thickness. That's thinner than the 5–6 inches a driveway needs, because a patio never has to carry a vehicle's weight. We install a proper isolation joint everywhere a slab meets your foundation — a step a lot of contractors skip. We also know exactly when Bloomington does and doesn't require a permit for a patio or walkway, so you're never over- or under-permitted. We're licensed, bonded, and insured, and every job starts with a written, itemized estimate. Call [Business Phone Number] for your free patio and walkway estimate.
Get the numbers you need to plan with confidence—no pressure, just clear and honest pricing.

Most backyard patios and entertaining spaces don't need a decorative-finish premium to hold up for decades. A standard patio starts with excavation and a compacted gravel base. Next comes forms and fiber-mesh or welded-wire reinforcement. Then we pour air-entrained concrete and finish it with a broom texture for slip resistance while it cures. It's the most durable, lowest-maintenance option we pour. It's the right call if you want a solid outdoor surface without paying for a stamped or colored look. Size, site access, and base prep are the main things that move the price, which we cover in the pricing section below.
Want your patio to look like natural stone, brick, or slate, without the paver price tag or the long-term upkeep? Stamped concrete gets you there. We build the same structural base as a standard patio. Then we press pattern mats into the fresh concrete, apply a release agent, and finish with integral color or a surface stain and sealer. Exposed aggregate is another decorative option — a textured, pebble-like finish that also adds slip resistance. Compared to a paver patio, stamped concrete has far fewer joints for weeds to work through, and nothing to re-level after a Minnesota winter. Pavers do have one edge: they're easier to spot-repair if one section gets damaged. Pattern complexity, coloring, and reinforcement level are the main cost drivers, covered in the pricing section below.


A standard patio is 4 inches thick over a 4-inch compacted gravel base, which is plenty for foot traffic and furniture. That's deliberately thinner than a driveway's 5–6-inch minimum, because a patio never has to carry a vehicle's weight. We do upgrade the spec under a hot tub, outdoor kitchen, fireplace, or any other heavy, fixed feature. In those spots, we go to 5 inches or add rebar instead of relying on fiber or wire mesh alone. The mistake we see most often goes one of two ways. Some people pay driveway-grade thickness for a plain patio that doesn't need it. Others pour a bare 4-inch unreinforced slab under a hot tub, and that slab ends up cracking or settling under the weight. If you're also planning a driveway, our driveway page covers the 5–6-inch spec and how it compares.
This section answers two questions we hear a lot. Why is my patio pulling away from the house? And how do you slope a patio so water doesn't pool against the foundation? Every slab we pour is graded at a quarter-inch of drop per foot, about a 2% grade. It slopes away from the house for at least 10 feet, or to the edge of the slab if that's shorter. That matches the building code's requirement for positive drainage away from a foundation (IRC Section R405). Water pooling against your foundation is a leading cause of basement moisture and frost-heave problems. Getting this grade right matters more than it looks like it should. Just as important is the isolation joint: a half-inch strip of asphalt-impregnated fiberboard set against the foundation before we pour. It lets the new slab move on its own through freeze-thaw cycles instead of bonding to your house. Pour a patio tight against the foundation without one, and you've got the direct, preventable cause of that pulling-away problem. It's worth asking any contractor you're considering whether they install one.


Front-entry walkways, backyard paths, side-yard access, and public-facing sidewalks all follow the same build: excavation, base prep, forming, reinforcement, the pour, a finish, and control joints. Broom is the standard finish, with stamped or colored also available. We pour these for homeowners replacing a cracked front walk or laying out a new-construction entry path. We also pour them for businesses and property managers who need a code-compliant public sidewalk. Most walkway and sidewalk projects wrap up in one to three days on site.
Standard residential walkways run 3–4 feet wide. We usually build front-entry walks at the full 4 feet, so two people can comfortably walk up to the door side by side. If your walkway connects to an accessible route, the federal ADA minimum is 36 inches. Public right-of-way sidewalks generally need 48 inches under PROWAG (Public Right-of-Way Accessibility Guidelines). That's the standard most jurisdictions default to for new public sidewalks, and it matters if you're a property manager or GC. As a rule of thumb: 3 feet for a secondary or side path, 4 feet for a primary entry, and 4–5 feet for anything public-facing or accessibility-governed.
Not every problem patio needs to be torn out. We handle crack repair, resurfacing for a worn or discolored slab, and mudjacking or polyurethane foam leveling for a section that's settled. Cracking is usually driven by soil settlement, expansive clay soils, freeze-thaw cycles, or a mix that had too much water in it originally. Settling comes from soil erosion or shifting beneath the slab. Heaving is frost or soil moisture pushing the slab up. And separation — the patio pulling away from the house — almost always traces back to a missing or failed isolation joint, or actual foundation movement. As a general guide: repair or releveling makes sense for an isolated settled section or hairline cosmetic cracking. Full replacement is the better call once cracking is widespread, heaving is significant, or the base itself has failed.
We look at your space, talk through size and finish, and give you a written price breakdown instead of a verbal ballpark.
We confirm whether your project qualifies for Bloomington's standard patio and walkway permit exemption, or pull a permit if an edge case applies. We also schedule the required Gopher State One Call utility locate at least two business days before we dig.
We excavate to depth, grade the subgrade, and compact a 4-inch Class 5 gravel base for drainage and frost resistance.
Forms go in to grade, and we install the isolation joint anywhere the slab meets your foundation. Then we place fiber mesh, welded-wire mesh, or rebar based on the thickness and load plan for your project.
We pour air-entrained concrete and grade it to the quarter-inch-per-foot drainage slope. Then we finish it broom, stamped, exposed aggregate, or colored before curing starts.
We saw control joints to manage future cracking, clean up the site, and walk the finished job with you before final payment.
Patios and walkways don't have to bear on frost-depth soil the way a foundation footing does. Still, they take a beating from Minnesota's climate. The frost line here runs 42 inches deep (Minn. Admin. Rules 1303.1600), and the Twin Cities metro sees 55–60 freeze-thaw cycles and roughly 60–70 days below freezing most winters. That repeated freeze-thaw stress, not just cold weather in general, is what drives cracking and heaving in a slab that wasn't built for it.
We hold every pour to the state's air-entrainment standard: a 5% minimum, with a 6.5% (±1.5%) target. That means the concrete has microscopic air pockets that give trapped water somewhere to expand into, instead of spalling (flaking off) the surface (Minn. Admin. Rules 1309.0402).
Minnesota's practical pour season runs late April through October, with the most reliable window from late May through early September. We plan patio and walkway schedules around that window. When timing calls for it, we can pour in shoulder-season conditions using proper cold-weather protocol.
Plan on 24–48 hours before your new patio can handle foot traffic. It needs about 7 days before it should take heavier loads, and 28 days to reach full cure strength. In year one especially, skip rock salt on new concrete and use CMA (calcium magnesium acetate) or sand instead. We recommend sealing within the first year with a penetrating silane or siloxane sealer, then resealing every 2–3 years.
The isolation joints and control joints covered above are the structural answer to all this freeze-thaw movement. They give the slab room to move without cracking or pulling away from your house.
• Thickness: 4 inches for a standard patio, 5 inches or rebar-reinforced for heavy fixed loads; walkways and sidewalks follow the MnDOT Spec 2531 sidewalk construction standard.
• Mix: 3,900–4,000 PSI air-entrained concrete, ASTM C94-compliant ready-mix (the national standard for ready-mix concrete).
• Base: 4-inch compacted Class 5 gravel sub-base.
• Reinforcement: fiber mesh (standard), welded-wire mesh, or rebar in heavy-load areas.
• Joints: isolation joints at every point the slab meets a structure, using asphalt-impregnated fiberboard filler, plus sawcut control joints per ACI (American Concrete Institute) flatwork guidance.
• Slope: a quarter-inch per foot, about 2%, away from structures, per IRC Section R405.
• Accessibility: ADA 1:50 (2% max) running and cross slope, with a 48-inch minimum clear width for public-facing walks under PROWAG.
• Broom finish — the standard, slip-resistant, most economical option, and the default for most patios and walkways.
• Stamped concrete — pattern and texture options that mimic stone, brick, or slate.
• Exposed aggregate — a decorative, textured finish with good slip resistance.
• Colored or stained concrete — integral color or a surface stain, which can be combined with a stamped pattern.
• Sealer — a penetrating silane or siloxane sealer, applied within the first year and reapplied every 2–3 years.
We'd rather you see real numbers here than call around for a quote just to get a ballpark. These are planning ranges, not exact quotes — every job gets a written, itemized estimate before any work starts.
• Standard broom-finish patio: roughly $6–$13 per square foot (Minneapolis-specific data trends toward $8–$12 per square foot).
• Stamped or decorative patio: roughly $9–$18 per square foot, depending on pattern and reinforcement.
• Standard plain walkway or sidewalk: roughly $7–$14 per square foot (broader scope and design work can range $8–$26 per square foot).
• Stamped or colored walkway: the standard walkway rate plus $1–$5 per square foot.
• Sidewalk section repair or replacement (vs. a full new install): roughly $8–$14 per square foot.
A few things move the price: total square footage, whether we need to demo an existing slab, how much base prep the site needs (poor soil means more excavation and gravel), reinforcement level (fiber mesh vs. rebar), and finish complexity (broom vs. stamped or colored). A permit or inspection is rare for a standard patio or walkway. But if your project hits one of the exceptions covered above, that becomes its own line item.
One more thing worth knowing: standard patios and walkways are typically permit-exempt in Bloomington. That means there's no $75–$160 city permit fee to budget for, unlike a driveway, where that fee applies — a real, specific savings.
We're based in Bloomington, home to just under 92,000 people. We pour patios and walkways across the full seven-county Twin Cities metro, home to more than 3.2 million people (Met Council, 2024). That includes Richfield, Edina, Eden Prairie, Minnetonka, Burnsville, Eagan, Apple Valley, Minneapolis, and St. Paul.

Usually no. The 2020 MN State Building Code, which Bloomington enforces, exempts standard, at-grade patios and walkways from a building permit. That's true as long as they're not part of an accessible route. The city's own fee schedule doesn't even have a patio permit line item. Driveways, on the other hand, always need one locally. The exceptions are a roof or cover, any electrical or plumbing tie-in, elevation over 30 inches, or a connection to a public accessible route. Confirm with Bloomington Building & Inspections (952-563-8930) if any of those apply to your project.
A standard broom-finish patio typically runs about $6–$13 per square foot. Stamped or decorative finishes run roughly $9–$18 per square foot, depending on pattern and reinforcement. Walkways run about $7–$14 per square foot for plain concrete, with stamped or colored finishes adding $1–$5 per square foot. Every project gets a written, itemized estimate before work starts.
A standard patio is built 4 inches thick over a 4-inch compacted gravel base, which is enough for foot traffic and furniture. That's noticeably thinner than a driveway's 5–6-inch minimum, since a driveway has to carry vehicle weight. We upgrade to 5 inches or add rebar if you're planning a hot tub, outdoor kitchen, or other heavy fixed feature.
The most common cause of a patio separating from the house is a missing or failed isolation joint. That's the strip of material that should go against the foundation before the pour, so the two structures can move on their own. Cracking and settling are usually driven by soil movement, freeze-thaw cycles, or a slab that wasn't built on a properly compacted base. We address all of that in how we grade, joint, and reinforce every patio we pour.
Most residential walkways are built 3–4 feet wide, with front-entry walks commonly at 4 feet for a more welcoming approach. If a walkway needs to meet accessibility standards or serves a public-facing entrance, plan for at least 36 inches — the ADA minimum. Public right-of-way sidewalks often need 48 inches instead.
Concrete needs the right temperature to cure properly. Our main pour season runs late April through October, with the most reliable window in late May through early September. Shoulder-season pours are sometimes possible with cold-weather protocols. But we'll always be upfront if timing puts your project at risk — we won't rush a pour that won't hold up.